$100 Farm Style Outdoor Table, No Seriously Less Than $100!

Have you wanted a large Farm Style Table? Well of course, Andi did! Though I was skeptical at first, I couldn't bare paying the price for something that seemed so simple to build. So we did what we typically do and built it ourselves. It only took about 3 days after work to build, and in all reality it was less than 8 hours of total work. This table has a nice rugged feel to it also and I added a bolt to the end for a little accent. This table seats 8 comfortably and looks incredible in the middle of our patio. It is the main topic of conversation during our BBQ's with family and friends and can easily be your family table if you follow the simple plans below!

Tools required:

1/8" drill Bit

Material required:

2X10 Pine Board - Length 96" (8') - qty 4

4X4 Pine Board - Length 96" (8') - qty of 3

2x4 Pine Board - Length 120" (10') - qty 1

1x4 Common Board - Length 18" - look for left overs from another project

2-1/2" Kregs Screws

2-1/2" common nails

Stain/Finish (pick your color and type)

Stain

Color express

White Wash

Polyurethane (Polycrylic)

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I have broken this project up into three parts. The Table Top, The Legs and the Final Table build. I have found that this makes it easier to follow and it gives logical steps to put the table together.

Part 1 - Table Top

This portion of the build you will need the 4 - 2 x 10's mentioned in the material list along with the Dowel kit, Kreg screws and Plugs.

Step 1 - Measure your Material and Cut it to Length and Drill Pocket Holes

Since we are making this 96" long it should be easy right? Unfortunately the materials generally run longer than 96". If you don't care about the length being long (must not be a type A) then move to the next step. If you do care, like I do, then measure the boards and mark all 3 pieces at 96" and be sure to cut to the right side of the mark. I generally mark the side I want to remove the material so place an X on the blade side. You will cut your (4) 2x10. The next semi-complicated part is drilling your dowel holes and pocket holes. Again mark the sides for your dowels and also mark the face for the pocket screws. One board is just cut to length (see the first box). Two of the boards boards are pocket holes and dowels with dowels holes transposed onto the backs of the boards when assembling the table top (make sure you have the dowel kit it has the punch in it and see the second box). The final board is pocket holes and dowels without anything transposed (see the third box). You will do the dowel punch step when joining the boards.

Step 2 - Sand Splintered Edges and Any Major Defects

I used to skip this step this until I finally grew tired of all the slivers and extra work that I had to do at the end of the project to get to the hard to reach areas. I only make this a separate step because I have found this to be a time saver.

Step 3 - Dowel Punch, Glue, Clamp and Screw the First two pieces

This is the repeated part of Dowel Punch, Glue the pieces, Clamp, and Screw. Remember to always work down a side when Clamping to ensure that you don't have a gap in the middle. This is critical in ensuring that your table is straight and flat.

Step 4 - Dowel Punch, Glue, Clamp and Screw Again!

Now repeat the process that I mentioned above but to the second middle board.

Step 5 - Dowel Punch, Glue, Clamp and Screw One More Time!

Now repeat the process that I mentioned above but to the second middle board. This is where it gets a little tricky clamping and I usually use my 36" with a 12" to get the length needed and clamp down enough to take out a gap. This is where you need to be like Macgyver or buy a pipe clamp, which I just use the Macgyver technique.

Step 6 - Sand Again!

This is the point where we wait for the glue to dry over night and then hit the table top with a sander to smooth out the plugs and square off the ends and edges. Use this time to give the edge of the table the feel and look that you want, this is probably the easiest time to do it.

Part 2 - Leg Assembly

This portion of the build you will need the 2 - 4 x 4's, 1 - 2 x 4, 1 x 2 mentioned in the material list along with the screws. Remember this shows you how to build one leg assembly so double up what you are doing to save time.

Step 1 - Measure your Material and Cut it to Length

These 4 x 4's get tricky because of the angle you have to cut and sometimes the miter saw fails to cut all the way through so you will have to flip the piece and rotate the blade on some of these. A little tip: The blade motor seems to get in the way more often than not so try and make all your long cuts with the motor away from the piece. Follow the same practice of marking parts to cut and which side the blade needs to be on your line. Go slow because you tend to forget which angle you cut or the direction it needs to go. I always use an existing part that I cut that is right to make my marks on all the remaining pieces. If you want to save time you can cut (4) additional braces (8 total) for the project because you will need them on the table assembly portion.

Step 2 - Sand Splintered Edges and Any Major Defects - I Say this Too Much!

Step 3 - Glue, Clamp, and Screw the base and Top

You will measure and mark the support to be centered on the leg base and top. What I generally do is place the leg on the support plate and measure each direction until it is centered. Then I make a mark on one side of the base and top plate. Next I glue an end on the vertical support, clamp it in place, predrill for your screws and screw it together. Repeat this process for the top also.

Step 4 - Install the lower X-brace.

You don't need to use the clamps because you can use your weight and the screws to pull them tight. But ensure you glue the faces on the x-brace. Check that you are flush on the bottom so you know your angle is correct on the top and bottom of the x-brace. Make sure that you leg is vertical before installing the first brace. You will want to use at least a 2' level.

Step 5 - Install Leg Pads.

This is pretty straight forward on how to install the base pads.

Step 6 - Sand Again!

I must sound like I am repeating myself, but yes please sand again. This is critcal because while this table is in smaller pieces it is easier to handle and get in those harder to reach spots. use this time to sand the edges on the 4x4's to give you the finished look you want on the base and also get rid of sharp edges.

Remember if you didn't build two leg assemblies this is where you go back through the process of Part 2 again so that you end up with two complete legs.

Part 3 - Table Assembly

When you get to this part hopefully you have a solid table top (it will flex a little until you screw the legs on), two leg assemblies and enough 4 x 4 to make the remaining parts required. You are on the home stretch and your farm table is within reach!

Step 1 - Measure your Material and Cut it to Length

This is the last of the 4x4's and if you already cut the bottom braces then you just have to cut the leg support which is easy. On the support piece you are going to also drill your pocket holes, which is also easy if you have the Mini Kreg Pocket Jig

Step 2 - Sand Splintered Edges and Any Major Defects!